How To: Upgrade firmware on LaMarzocco GS/3

[networkcrasher]

Insert typical disclaimer here. You will be opening up the machine and will be applying power while energized components are exposed. You could ELECTROCUTE YOURSELF! I will not be responsible for the state of your machine before, or after, this procedure is done. Proceed at your own risk and discrimination. I also will not be able to provide any sort of personal technical support, and I also doubt LM (or it’s associated distribution chain) will provide any support if you break your machine.

1) You're basically looking to source an Atmel Mega32 programmer for ISP (in system programming) that has a 10 pin (5x2) header to plug into the board in the GS/3.

Here is where I got mine. I bought the AVR-PG2B and the AVR-PG1B. There are other types of programmers that should work, from what I can tell, but they are much more expensive. Like the USB ones, etc, they're over $50, and that was more than I wanted to spend to see if I could find an adapter that would work. $13 seemed reasonable, especially considering the rest of the software is free, with the exception of the hex file. This is the exact adapter I purchased. THE AVR-PG1B WILL NOT WORK!

As stated above, one can probably purchase a cheap USB LPT adapter and be good to go. Make sure it is a USB LPT (or Parallel) adapter, and NOT A DB25 SERIAL ADAPTER! I have an older T42 Thinkpad laptop that for some unknown reason has a LPT port on the back, and it worked like a champ. I recommend purchasing a $6 DB25M to DB25F straight through parallel cable (or appropriate - the interface is DB25M and my laptop has a DB25F) along with the programmer to make it easier to attach the programmer interface to your machine of choice - especially if you are using a desktop and not a laptop. If you're using the USB LPT adapter, the cord for it is likely long enough to not necessitate the parallel cable. Make sure the cable has all pins connected and it is a straight pass-through style cable.

2) Download PonyProg2000. I was provided v2.06C from LM when I did my upgrade, so I think it'd be safe to download 2.06F. If you're adventurous, you could download whatever the current version is. YMMV. Install PonyProg, accepting the defaults.

3) After PonyProg is installed, the first time you run the program, go to Setup, then Calibrate:

Hit yes on the following screen:

You should receive a "Calibration OK" message.

4) Once you have your programming interface (PI), you need to test it. Select Setup, then Interface Setup...

To set up your PI, select Parallel under I/O port setup, Avr ISP API in the right drop down box, the appropriate LPT port (most folks will select LPT1, depends if you're doing USB or how many LPT ports you have...), and DO NOT select anything in the "Select Polarity of the Control Lines" area.

Once this is complete, and your PA is hooked to your LPT port, press "Probe" and you should receive a "Test Result OK" box. If you do not receive a "everything went OK" message, you have something wrong in your setup, and do not proceed until you receive an OK message. Once the probe is successful, please press OK to return back to the main PonyProg2000 screen.

5) On the right of the main screen, you will see 2 drop down menu boxes. In the first box, select "AVR Micro":

In the second box, select "ATMega32":


6) UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE FROM MAINS POWER!!!!
First, you should probably go through the different options in your machine and write down your customized settings. PID settings, offsets, temp settings, etc.

Now it's time to take apart your beautiful machine.

Start out by allowing yourself access to the rear of the GS/3. You will need to have full access to the two screws on the back, as well as room to slide out the control box.

Remove these two screws:


Once those two screws are out, pull on the lower plastic piece until it completely slides out from the GS/3. There is a little "speed bump" on top of the box that makes it a little difficult, but it should come out with a little force. Once out, use a smaller phillips screwdriver and remove the 5 screws and washers in the top of the control box. Once open, you should see something like this:



(Note, I took out my power switch for a better view, but you don't really need to. Also, I'm not sure how the cables were originally connected, so hopefully I hooked it back up correctly in the next photo.)



7) Connect the PI to the socket labeled CN9 on the control board under the power switch:

(Note, the image shows the LM cable, not the cable I purchased for myself)
The other end of the adapter should already be connected to your computer.

8) Back in PonyProg, select File, then select “Open Program (FLASH) File”:

Then change the “Files of Type” area to read “*.hex”:

Then select the downloaded and unzipped hex file that is attached to this post, and click open. You should see the loaded hex file in the program’s main window:

9) Now is when you need to plug the GS/3 back in, and turn the power switch on, but you don’t need to actually power up the machine via the front panel. It’s safer to leave the boilers, etc, powered off at this point – the machine should be in standby – where it says “OFF” and the time on the front display.

THIS IS WHEN YOU CAN ELECTROCUTE YOURSELF AS THE MAINS POWER IS EXPOSED VIA THE CONTROL BOARD. AS ALWAYS, I’M NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU ELECTROCUTE YOURSELF, BLOW UP YOUR MACHINE, DEPLETE YOUR SAVINGS ACCOUNT, ETC.

Next, select COMMAND, then SECURITY AND CONFIGURATION BITS from the top menu toolbar.
Press the READ key to see the running configuration.
Make sure the CKOPT, EESAVE, BODLEVEL, BODEN bits are selected, as well as check that the SPIEN bit is selected (already selected and cannot be changed).

(Note: On mine, the Lock2 and Lock1 options were selected. I deselected them. I believe they were checked again the next time I did a read, so YMMV. Oh, and sorry it’s blurry.)

Select OK.

10) Select COMMAND, program options from the upper menu bar and then mark the ERASE, WRITE PROGRAM MEMORY (FLASH), WRITE SECURITY AND CONFIG BITS fields.

Select OK.

11) Time to actually flash the GS/3! Make sure the GS/3 is still powered up (in standby – where it says “OFF” and the time on the front display) as this won’t work otherwise. Select COMMAND, then PROGRAM from the menu display.


You should see a status display show up with a progressing percentage:


Once the programming is complete, you should receive the following message:


Cycle the power to your GS/3 and check that the display now reads 1.13 as the firmware version (or whatever firmware version you just loaded).

Done!

If you receive an error message that the write failed, try the following:

Confirm by pressing OK and proceed as follows:
• Verify that the GS/3 is powered on, but in standby;
• Verify that the board has been programmed (use COMMAND, VERIFY PROGRAM command): if the answer is positive, skip the next items;
• Verify the configuration and security bits state;
• Verify the programming options state;
• Run the *.HEX file again, by using FILE, RELOAD FILES command;
• Repeat the programming procedure.


Now is the time to go back and check all of your settings to make sure they were retained. I didn’t have any issues, but if you find corrupted values, you should reset your machine’s programmed options by performing the following reset procedure - cycle the main power switch while holding buttons 1,3,5.

12) The final step is to put everything back together. I decided to leave my PI attached in the unlikely event there is another firmware upgrade in the future. Do this if you like, but be aware that if the PI gets wet, you will probably fry your control board, get mad at me, create a black hole somewhere in the cosmos, etc. One might consider using a DB25 dust cap. I let the PI hang out from where the other connections retreat to the machine’s internal parts.

I also decided that it would be best to attach the PI to the machine somehow, so I grabbed some Velcro and attached it to the pump protection plate (wow, say that fast 5 times!):

[Wolff]

Damn, thats great work

[houdina]

This looks like what I did to upgrade my software. The one thing I would add is go thru all your settings and copy them down first, most importantly the ones that are machine specific like boiler temp offset. When I flashed mine I did get some coruption of settings and needed to reset back to factory defaults.

[networkcrasher]

That's one of the first things to do in step 6

[EricC]

Many thanks Mark and Gregg.

I updated my GS/3 earlier this evening after speaking with Mark and ordering the necessary programmer/dongle. I also bought a parallel extension lead which proved invaluable given the very short cable on the programmer/dongle.

After reading both Mark's and Gregg's instructions, and using the binary file provided it all went extremely smoothly, however i did have to do the complete reset ( hold down buttons 1, 3 and 5 whilst turning the power on and wait for the reset confirmation in the display). Once this was done I powered the GS/3 off and then on again and all was perfect. I did have to re-enter all of the parameters except for the PID settings.

It is great to be able to see the heaters firing for each of the boilers since the update and I can't wait to try out the automated cleaning cycle plus the other features and the "L" bug fix.

Excellent, many many thanks to Mark for his hard work on sourcing the dongle etc and his excellent guide above, and also to Gregg for staring the ball rolling over on CoffeeGeek.

Best Regards
Eric

[networkcrasher]

Interesting. I wonder what the 'trigger' is that causes the user settings to be corrupted. Both times I flashed mine, the settings were still intact.

[EricC]

Interesting. I wonder what the 'trigger' is that causes the user settings to be corrupted. Both times I flashed mine, the settings were still intact.

I was upgrading from 1.11 if that makes any difference.

Eric:

Are all the new features listed for 1.13 new for you as well or did 1.11 have any of them already?

[houdina]

Sorry, I missed the line on saving the setting.

[chasr]

I received the USB-Printer adapter yesterday. There may be some others that work the way I had hoped, but this wasn't one of them. This adapter still looks to the PC as if you are printing to a USB printer, it just allows you to actually connect to a printer that doesn't have a USB port. So with it installed, there is still no LPT port that shows up on the computer, which is required for the programmer software to work.

I have a spare "test PC" which is actually a full desktop PC w/o a case that I will be setting up in the kitchen.

That's my bad news relative to my own personal convenience in doing this upgrade. On the plus side, it looks like my programmer cable may arrive today. So I'll be getting to perform the upgrade this weekend rather than next!

[EricC]

I have a spare "test PC" which is actually a full desktop PC w/o a case that I will be setting up in the kitchen.

That's my bad news relative to my own personal convenience in doing this upgrade. On the plus side, it looks like my programmer cable may arrive today. So I'll be getting to perform the upgrade this weekend rather than next!

That's what I was going to do, however I then decided to take my laptop and its docking station home from the office and do it from that.

Excellent news on the programmer cable, are you getting or do you already have a parallel extension lead, all pins connected?

This really does make things much easier as the lead on the programmer cable is only about 6 inches long.

[networkcrasher]

I was upgrading from 1.11 if that makes any difference.

Eric:

Are all the new features listed for 1.13 new for you as well or did 1.11 have any of them already?

I bet it's the upgrade path. I went from 1.12 to 1.13. All of the listed features/fixes are new to me in this firmware version.

[EricC]

I bet it's the upgrade path. I went from 1.12 to 1.13. All of the listed features/fixes are new to me in this firmware version.

I think that you are probably spot on there Mark. Same for me, all new.

[chasr]

This will allow you to print out a easily readable version of the instructions to have by your side during an upgrade session.

GS3 Firmware Update Instructions.pdf

PDF Version of Firmware Update Instructions

(1.1 MiB) Downloaded 101 times

[networkcrasher]

On a side note, since I left my PI attached internally, I've seen/heard the display and internal relays and such reset twice. I think there's an issue with leaving the PI attached to the ISP header, and might recommend leaving it unattached for long term storage. Other than the reset, I haven't noticed any other issues. I also never noticed this issue after my first flash. When I wrote up these instructions, I flashed the proc again so I could make sure the PI I found worked, and I could have corrupted something along the lines. I'm going to test resetting to defaults first (so I don't have to take apart the machine), then if I still see the resets, I'll pull the PI out of the ISP header.

[chasr]

I am successfully upgraded to 1.13. I had quite a time getting the upgrade successfully completed. In hindsight I am almost certain that the problem was my parallel extension cable. It was too long at 15-20'. If there is another upgrade I'll get about a 6' cable. During the Get Config Bits and Programming phases I kept getting the "Abort, Retry, Ignore" warning that something was amiss. Initially I tried a variety of things - different versions of PonyProg, different parallel port settings, and even a different computer. Symptoms were identical with all combinations. I even ohmed out every pin on the cable to be sure it was OK.

At one point I got through the Config bit settings, started to program, and failed turning the GS/3 temporarily into a door stop. Eventually I just kept hitting Retry when I'd get the warning and finally got it to go.

I did confirm that the leading "L" problem is fixed. I also pushed the button combination to check out the cleaning cycle. Today, I'll actually use it and see how effective it is at cleaning. It does fifteen 6s On - 6s Off cycles.

I only tried one shot and didn't get it to choke so I can't yet confirm that they extended to time from 40s to 50s nor did I yet noticed a big difference in button sensitivity. I should no better by the end of the day today.

Thanks, Networkcrasher, for making it all possible!

[EricC]

I also pushed the button combination to check out the cleaning cycle. Today, I'll actually use it and see how effective it is at cleaning. It does fifteen 6s On - 6s Off cycles.

I only tried one shot and didn't get it to choke so I can't yet confirm that they extended to time from 40s to 50s nor did I yet noticed a big difference in button sensitivity. I should no better by the end of the day today.

Thanks, Networkcrasher, for making it all possible!

Whew, am I glad to read this.

I checked mine on the cleaning cycle too and counted 15 too. I used to do 5 with Cafiza and 5 without so there was 10 anyway.
It is really handy, saves standing in front of the machine counting, switching on, switching off etc.

I did manage to get a shot up into the high 40s, so the 50s limit is indeed there. Must admit I hadn't noticed the button sensitivity change, until I was cleaning a splash near the tea button and managed to deposit some hot water on the worktop.

Yes, many thanks once again Networkcrasher.

[networkcrasher]

In hindsight I am almost certain that the problem was my parallel extension cable. It was too long at 15-20'. If there is another upgrade I'll get about a 6' cable.

I'd put money on that. Mostly because the transmission is unbuffered TTL signals on the parallel port programmer. It must manually retransmit when something is skewed, hence all of your error messages. Generally, extending via a longer parallel cable is OK, but 15' is waaaay too long (IMHO).

The original LM cable had about 3' or 4' of ribbon cable after the interface, and I was surprised that it worked so well.

[michelmia]

I updated the software to version 1.13 a few weeks ago. Everything went well. I like the new cleaning cycle. It's better than sitting in from of the machine cycling between on and off.

I did notice that the PID settings for the steam boiler no longer appear in version 1.13. Anyone else notice this? I was upgrading from version 1.11 to 1.13. Is this normal?

[networkcrasher]

Yep, that's been noted elsewhere I believe. Glad it worked well for you!

[Lennart]

I am also om 1.13 now.
I have pulled a shot that went 50 seconds so I know that works. Cleaning cycle works well also. I must say I haven't really noticed better button sensitivity.

After the update all went well until I received a 'flow alarm'. Turned out that after the update the GS/3 was put back to ' plumbed in' mode. I use the reservoir but in plumbed in mode you don't get a refill message. It was just that my reservoir was empty. Pfeww, changed the setting, bled the group head and all is well again.

Lennart

[wogaut]

Can anybody recommend a USB-Parallel adapter or a USB programmer that works?

I don't have legacy ports anymore (already using a USB-Serial adapter for my roaster...).

W.

[networkcrasher]

From the list I linked above, this would probably work.

YMMV, I haven't tested it, but it's an ISP AVR programmer, so it should work. Not sure how it'd show up in pony prog, but I'm guessing you'll find it as one of the com ports in the device manager or program listing.

[chasr]

Did they have this variant a few months ago when a bunch of us were updating or is this new?

Initially I tried a USB to parallel adapter on my laptop. No go. These all emulate a Centronics interface so you can connect an old printer that only has that interface. HOWEVER, they still present themselves to the PC as a USB port. They do not show up under device manager in Windows as LPTx ports. I did find a PC Card parallel port adapter and this does emulate LPTx ports. However, these cost about the same so the solution linked in Networkcrasher's post looks like the ticket, Then all parts are from the same vendor and more likely to play nice with each other.

[networkcrasher]

Sure did, I just didn't want to pony up the 60 bucks...

Here is where I got mine. I bought the AVR-PG2B and the AVR-PG1B. There are other types of programmers that should work, from what I can tell, but they are much more expensive. Like the USB ones, etc, they're over $50, and that was more than I wanted to spend to see if I could find an adapter that would work.

[rlb2444]

Curious to know if the GS3 is configured to use MACs?

[networkcrasher]

Huh? MAC's as in networking?

[chasr]

That was my thought....or MAC as in Macintosh. I think the answer to both may be "No" as I don't think there is a Mac version of the PonyProg software nor is there an Ethernet connection to the GS/3.